Using Your Own Router with Starlink: Bypass Mode [2026]

Bypass mode turns a Starlink terminal into a plain modem. It is a single toggle in the Starlink app — Settings → Router → Bypass Mode → Confirm — that shuts down the built-in Wi-Fi and routing stack and passes the terminal’s WAN address straight through to whatever router you plug into the Ethernet port or adapter. Starlink documents the feature on its support portal at starlink.com/support, where the router and accessory articles describe the toggle, the Ethernet requirement and the recovery procedure. It is offered on current hardware — the Gen 2 rectangular dish, the Gen 3 Standard kit, the Flat High Performance terminal and the Mini — and not as a native setting on the discontinued Gen 1 round dish.

Two details trip people up in every market. On Gen 2 kits, Ethernet is an accessory rather than a port: the Starlink Ethernet Adapter is a separate purchase from the accessories section of starlink.com/shop, listed at roughly US$25 in the United States with comparable local pricing elsewhere before tax. And leaving bypass mode is a hardware procedure — three rapid power cycles — rather than a menu item, because once bypass is active there is no local Starlink interface left to log into.

• Enable path: Starlink app → Settings → Router → Bypass Mode → Confirm, followed by roughly half a minute of reconnecting.
• Required hardware: the Starlink Ethernet Adapter on Gen 2, or the Ethernet ports built into Gen 3, Flat High Performance and some Mini units.
• Your router’s WAN setting: DHCP client. No PPPoE, no static IP, no username or password.
• App statistics: still available, because the app reads telemetry from Starlink’s cloud rather than from your local network.
• Escape hatch: three rapid power cycles at the terminal restore router mode if you lock yourself out.
• What it will not do: make your satellite internet faster, or hand you a publicly routable IP address.

What Starlink Bypass Mode Actually Does (And What You Lose)

Bypass mode is a software setting that disables the Starlink router’s Wi-Fi radios, DHCP server and NAT engine, so the terminal stops behaving like a router and simply forwards its WAN connection to the device on the Ethernet port. Your own router then becomes the only gateway on the network: it requests an address by DHCP, performs NAT for your devices, and owns every firewall, DNS and port rule from that point on.

The practical effect is that the Starlink SSID disappears from the air. Any device still looking for it will find nothing, and Starlink mesh nodes — which depend on the Starlink router being active — stop functioning entirely. That single point catches out households that bought mesh nodes first and discovered bypass mode later, and it is worth checking before you spend anything, because mesh hardware bought for a Starlink router has no role in a bypassed network.

What survives the switch

Dish telemetry, the obstruction map, uptime history, speed graphs, stow and reboot controls and firmware updates all continue to work, because the app signs in to your Starlink account and pulls that data from Starlink’s servers rather than from the terminal on your LAN. This is the single most misunderstood aspect of the feature. A lot of the guidance still circulating in forum archives says statistics go dark in bypass, which reflects how older firmware behaved rather than how current builds do; if you read that claim somewhere, check the date on it before believing it.

What you give up

You lose the Starlink Wi-Fi network, the guest network, mesh support, and the local settings page at the terminal’s management address. You also lose the ability to toggle bypass back off from the app, since there is no longer a local route to the router for that instruction to travel down. Everything else you might want — client lists, parental controls, per-device limits, traffic graphs — has to come from your own router’s firmware instead.

One expectation worth resetting before you start: bypass mode hands over whatever address Starlink assigns, which on standard residential service in most countries is a carrier-grade NAT (CGNAT) address in the 100.64.0.0/10 range rather than a globally routable public IPv4. Bypass removes the extra layer of NAT your own router would otherwise add on top. It cannot remove Starlink’s. Inbound port forwarding therefore still needs a routable address — typically a business or priority service tier where that is offered, an IPv6 path where your ground station and plan support it, or an outbound-initiated tunnel from a hosted endpoint.

If the physical install is not finished yet — dish sited, cable routed, power confirmed — settle that first. How to Install and Set Up Your Starlink Kit: Step-by-Step Guide covers the groundwork this guide assumes you already have in place.

Which Starlink Hardware Supports Bypass Mode

Compatibility follows the hardware generation, not the service plan. Check the terminal you actually own before ordering an adapter, because connectors and ports differ between generations and a Gen 2 adapter will not help a round dish. Starlink publishes per-model details, including power figures, on its specifications and support pages — the current model list sits at starlink.com/specifications, and it is the right place to settle an argument about what your kit can do.

Power figures above are indicative rather than measured guarantees; actual draw shifts with temperature, snow-melt heating, obstruction re-scanning and how hard the link is working. If you are sizing a battery bank, use the published specification for your model and add headroom rather than treating a band as a ceiling.

Gen 1 owners are not stuck, but they have no clean option. The usual workaround is to leave the original router in place and connect a third-party router to its LAN port, either in access point mode (no double-NAT, but no advanced routing either) or in router mode with the Starlink router’s DHCP scope kept out of the way (double-NAT, which breaks inbound services and complicates VPNs). Neither is equivalent to real bypass, and neither is worth much effort if a hardware upgrade is on the cards anyway.

The Mini’s power profile is the reason it dominates mobile builds: at a draw measured in tens of watts it can run from a modest battery-and-solar setup alongside a low-consumption travel router, where a Gen 2 terminal will flatten the same battery in a fraction of the time. For how those portable configurations behave across borders and service plans, see Starlink for Digital Nomads: Portable Internet Across Borders.

The Starlink Ethernet Adapter: Price, Models and Availability

On Gen 2, the adapter is not in the box. Standard consumer kits of that generation ship with the dish, mount, router, cable and power supply; Ethernet is an accessory ordered through your Starlink account, and the kit contents listed on the shop pages reflect that. Gen 3 changed this by putting Ethernet ports on the router itself, which is why newer buyers are often confused by older guides insisting they need to buy something.

Treat every figure in that table as an indication, not a quotation. Accessory pricing, bundling and even the existence of a given accessory vary by market, and the only number that binds anyone is the one in your own cart. The US$25-class headline price has been remarkably stable for the Gen 2 adapter, with European listings tracking it rather than floating with exchange rates, but the tax-inclusive total is what actually leaves your account — and in markets with 19–25% VAT that total looks noticeably different from the figure a US buyer sees on the same product page. That mismatch is why cross-border price comparisons in forum threads so reliably descend into disagreement.

Lead times and stock

Starlink shows a delivery estimate per country at checkout, and that estimate is the figure to trust over any secondhand claim. Owners posting in community channels generally report short waits in mature North American and Western European markets and materially longer ones in newer or higher-demand regions, sometimes stretching to a month or more. Those are community-reported impressions rather than published service levels, they move with stock, and they should not be used to plan an installation date. Add the adapter to your cart in your own country and read what the checkout tells you.

One planning note saves a wasted weekend: order the adapter before you plan the switchover, not after. Enabling bypass mode without the adapter in hand is the single most common self-inflicted outage in this entire procedure.

How Starlink Price, Plan Tier and Availability Shape Your Router Choice

Router topology is not the only variable in a satellite internet build, and it is rarely the most expensive one. It is worth putting the hardware decision next to the commercial one, because the two interact more than most guides admit.

Start with the money. Across markets, Starlink price points cluster into a hardware charge that has ranged widely with promotions and regional subsidies, plus a monthly service fee that differs substantially between residential, lite, roam, priority and maritime tiers. Against that, a US$25 adapter is noise — but a US$200–400 Wi-Fi 6E or multi-gigabit router is not, and it buys you nothing on the satellite hop. If your monthly bill is already the largest line in your connectivity budget, spend the marginal money on whatever is actually limiting you: obstruction clearance, a better mount, a higher plan tier, or a cellular failover link. Spend it on a router only if you have a router-shaped problem.

Then check the service side. Starlink availability is sold by geographic cell, and cells can be shown as available, waitlisted or sold out independently of one another, which is why two neighbours a few kilometres apart can get different answers from the same address checker. Availability also determines which hardware generation you are shipped, whether a given accessory is listed in your market at all, and which plan tiers exist locally. That last point matters directly for bypass planning: the publicly routable IP address that makes inbound port forwarding possible is generally a feature of business and priority tiers rather than standard residential service, and those tiers are not offered everywhere. If your entire reason for going to bypass is self-hosting, confirm the plan exists in your country before you buy a router to serve it.

Finally, weigh who maintains the site. A bypassed network with VLANs and custom firewall rules is a fine thing at home, where you are the administrator. On a remote site, a rental, or a shared office, the total cost of ownership includes someone else’s ability to fix it at 22:00 without your password manager. Complexity you cannot support is not an upgrade.

Step-by-Step: Enabling Bypass Mode on Gen 2, Gen 3 and Mini

The whole change takes a few minutes once the hardware is in hand. Work through it in order — the sequencing matters more than any individual step.

1. Update the Starlink app. On recent builds the Mini’s bypass toggle sits under an Advanced submenu rather than at the top of the router settings; older app versions may not expose it at all. Gen 2 and Gen 3 present it directly under Router. If you cannot find it, update before you go looking for workarounds.
2. Power down the terminal. Unplug the power supply before touching the cable so you are not hot-swapping a connector.
3. Fit the Ethernet path. On Gen 2 the adapter sits inline between the dish cable and the Starlink router. The router still needs power, because it continues to feed the dish even with its Wi-Fi off. On Gen 3 and Flat High Performance, use the Ethernet port already on the unit.
4. Cable your router’s WAN port to the adapter or Ethernet socket, and set that WAN interface to DHCP client before you enable bypass, so it can pick up an address the moment the link comes up.
5. Power everything back on and confirm normal internet over the Starlink Wi-Fi first. Never enable bypass on a link you have not just proven works — otherwise you will spend the next hour debugging a router when the dish was the problem.
6. Open the app: Settings → Router → Bypass Mode → Confirm. On a Mini, expand Advanced first.
7. Wait out the reconnect. Allow around half a minute. The Starlink SSID will vanish; that disappearance is the expected signal that the toggle applied.
8. Check your router’s WAN status page. You want a leased IPv4 address, a gateway and working DNS. No PPPoE credentials, no static addressing, no VLAN ID.
9. Write down the recovery step somewhere that is not behind the connection you just changed. Three rapid power cycles, on a note in the cupboard with the power supply.

If your router shows no address after two or three minutes, do not start changing settings at random. Release and renew the DHCP lease once, then reboot the router on its own. If it still comes up empty, the cause is almost always physical — the adapter seated poorly, a damaged cable end, or the wrong port used on the router — rather than a configuration subtlety.

Keeping Starlink App Statistics in Bypass Mode

Statistics keep working in bypass mode because the app is not talking to your local network when it draws those graphs. It authenticates to your account and retrieves dish telemetry through Starlink’s cloud, so your phone can be on the new router’s Wi-Fi, on mobile data, or on another continent, and still show current obstruction data, uptime and throughput history.

The condition is simple: the dish must have a working path out to Starlink. When statistics go quiet, check in this order.

• Dish power and link. If the terminal is down there is nothing to report. Confirm the Starlink router still has mains power, because it powers the dish even with its Wi-Fi disabled — a detail that surprises people who unplug it as “no longer needed”.
• Cable integrity and seating. Inspect the run and both ends of the adapter, especially after a reroute, a mount adjustment or a winter of movement.
• Your own filtering. This is the one failure mode bypass genuinely introduces. Pi-hole, NextDNS with aggressive blocklists, an outbound default-deny firewall policy or a client-isolation rule can all cut the terminal’s telemetry off. Exempt the terminal’s address from filtering and give it a DHCP reservation so the exemption stays valid.
• Test from mobile data. If the app works on cellular but not on your home Wi-Fi, the culprit is your router, not the dish. This one test separates 90% of cases.
• Platform-side reporting gaps. Uncommon, and usually visible as a cluster of simultaneous complaints in community channels within minutes. If several strangers are reporting the same blank graphs at the same time, stop debugging your LAN.

Obstruction visibility deserves a specific mention, because it is the statistic most owners actually rely on month to month. It persists in bypass mode along with everything else — and if your obstruction percentage is what is worrying you, the mounting decision matters far more than the router topology ever will. Starlink Obstructions: How to Check, Fix and Choose a Mounting Spot works through the diagnosis and the relocation options.

Router Settings That Work Best with Starlink Satellite Internet

Starlink behaves like an ordinary DHCP-served broadband handoff, so most third-party routers need very little persuasion. The defaults are usually right; the failures come from people configuring things the service never asked for.

• WAN type: DHCP client. Automatic addressing, nothing else. Expect a CGNAT address on standard residential service in most markets.
• No PPPoE, no static IP. There are no credentials to enter. A half-configured PPPoE profile left over from a previous ISP is a classic cause of a dead WAN immediately after switchover.
• MTU 1500. Standard. Drop to around 1420 if you terminate a VPN tunnel on the router, so encapsulated packets do not fragment — a fault that presents as pages half-loading while pings look perfectly healthy.
• IPv6: support varies by ground station, market and plan. If you see intermittent drops or slow name resolution, disable the router’s IPv6 prefix-delegation request and retest on IPv4 only before blaming the dish.
• DNS: leave it on the provided resolvers at first. Move to your own resolver only once the link is proven stable, so you can tell a DNS problem from a link problem.
• MAC cloning: off. Service is not bound to a router MAC address, and cloning your old ISP router’s address achieves nothing except confusion later.
• Bufferbloat control on: if your router offers smart queue management (SQM/CAKE/fq_codel), enable it and set the shaper slightly below your typical sustained throughput. On a variable satellite internet link this does more for perceived responsiveness than any raw speed change.
• Double-NAT: bypass removes the layer your own router would add. If you leave the Starlink router active and run your router in router mode, you get two NATs and all the port-forwarding and VPN grief that follows.

For Wi-Fi itself, the case for third-party hardware is straightforward: Gen 2’s built-in radio is Wi-Fi 5, while current mainstream routers run Wi-Fi 6 or 6E with better handling of dense client counts and airtime fairness. That improves the local hop, not the satellite hop — a distinction worth holding onto before you spend money expecting a different ping.

Common Bypass Mode Mistakes and How to Fix Them

Enabling bypass before the Ethernet path exists

The app typically warns you and then lets you proceed anyway. The outcome is a terminal with no Wi-Fi and no wired path: no internet, and no local interface from which to undo the change. Fit the adapter and cable the router first, every time, and confirm the router’s WAN port link light before you touch the toggle.

Factory resetting the dish while in bypass

Resetting from inside bypass leaves the terminal in a state the app cannot reach, and recovering it means physical intervention at the power supply. Restore router mode first, then reset if you still need to.

The recovery procedure

The documented route back to router mode is three rapid power cycles of the terminal — off, on, off, on, off, on in quick succession, each cycle only a few seconds long. It is the step Starlink’s support articles point to and the one most frequently recommended in community discussion; owners generally report it working, though some describe needing more than one attempt and a patient minute or two afterwards. When it succeeds, the default Starlink SSID reappears with factory credentials and the app regains local access to the router menu.

VLAN tagging on a managed switch

Dropping the Starlink Ethernet path onto a tagged port breaks the DHCP handshake, because the terminal sends untagged frames. The symptom is distinctive: link light present, no lease, no errors. Use an access port on the correct untagged VLAN, or connect the router directly to the adapter to isolate the fault before you rebuild switch config.

Expecting port forwarding to start working

Bypass gives your router control of the firewall, but it cannot manufacture a routable address. If residential CGNAT is in play, inbound forwarding still will not reach you, and the answer is a service tier that provides a public IP where one is offered, an IPv6 path where supported, or an outbound-initiated tunnel from a cheap hosted endpoint. Plenty of people buy a router to solve this and end up needing a US$5-a-month VPS instead.

Forgetting the mesh nodes

Starlink mesh units are accessories for the Starlink router. In bypass they are inert. If coverage was the reason you started down this road, budget for your own mesh or access points as part of the same project rather than discovering the gap after the SSID disappears.

When the trouble looks broader than bypass — the dish dropping out, repeated reboots, or no signal at all — work the general fault tree instead: Starlink Offline or Disconnected: Fixing Common Errors covers the connectivity failures that have nothing to do with your router choice.

When to Stay in Standard Mode (And Hybrid Setups)

Bypass is not an upgrade for everyone, and there is no prize for running it. Standard mode remains the better call for single-device or small households, for anyone who wants the app’s obstruction and alignment prompts to work without thinking about network topology, and for installations maintained by somebody other than the person who set them up. Simplicity has real value when the nearest technical help is a long drive away.

That reliability argument is sharpest in emergency and field deployments, where a terminal may be handed to staff with no networking background and has to work from a cold start with nothing but a phone. The rapid-deployment pattern described in Starlink in Disaster Relief: Hurricane and Conflict Zone Connectivity is exactly the scenario where an unmodified standard-mode kit beats a cleverer configuration.

The hybrid middle ground

You can take most of the benefit without the commitment: leave the Starlink router in standard mode and configure your own router in access point or bridge mode. Starlink keeps DHCP and NAT; your hardware supplies the Wi-Fi coverage, the extra Ethernet ports and the roaming behaviour between bands. There is no double-NAT, the Starlink SSID stays available for diagnostics, and reverting is a single setting rather than a power-cycle ritual. What you do not get is control of the firewall, DHCP reservations or any inbound routing — so this is the right answer for a coverage problem and the wrong one for a segmentation problem.

When bypass is the right answer

Choose full bypass when you need custom firewall rules or VLAN segmentation, a VPN server running on your own router, a mesh system with its own controller, IoT isolation policies, or multi-WAN failover between Starlink and a cellular or fibre backup. Those are router functions Starlink’s hardware does not expose, and no amount of configuration in standard mode will produce them. If your list of requirements contains none of the above, the honest recommendation is to keep the toggle where it is.

Performance: Bypass Mode vs the Starlink Router

Throughput does not change. The bottleneck is the satellite link, not the routing silicon, and the download figures published for residential service — broadly tens to low hundreds of megabits depending on market, cell congestion and time of day — are set by conditions your router has no influence over. A router swap does not move a single one of those variables.

Latency is the more interesting claim. Removing one NAT hop is worth a small theoretical gain, often described in community discussion as a couple of milliseconds; treat that as an impression rather than a measurement, because it sits well inside the run-to-run variance of consecutive speed tests. Against it you have the inherent round-trip time of a low-earth-orbit link, which Starlink’s own published service expectations place in the low tens of milliseconds in most markets, plus the periodic jitter of satellite handovers. Any NAT saving disappears into that noise, which is precisely why paired before-and-after comparisons posted online so rarely agree with one another.

Where better hardware demonstrably helps is the local network. Wi-Fi 6 and 6E routers manage dense client counts, airtime fairness and local latency better than the Wi-Fi 5 radio in a Gen 2 terminal; the Mini and Gen 3 routers narrow that gap but still compete with dedicated hardware. Smart queue management on a capable router also stops a large upload from ruining a video call — a form of control the built-in router does not meaningfully expose, and the one change most likely to make your connection feel faster without changing a single Mbps.

How to test honestly

• Test wired, from a device plugged into the router, so Wi-Fi variance does not contaminate the result.
• Run at least five tests spread across different hours and, ideally, two different days. A single midday test tells you about congestion, not hardware.
• Record idle latency and loaded latency separately. The bufferbloat measurement offered by modern speed tests is far more revealing than raw throughput on a satellite link.
• Change one variable at a time. Swapping router, Wi-Fi standard and DNS resolver together produces a number you cannot attribute to anything.
• Log the conditions: weather, obstruction percentage, plan tier, firmware and time of day. Two results without that context are not comparable, yours included.
• Be sceptical of aggregate user-submitted figures with no hardware, firmware, plan tier or market attached — including the confident ones.

Bottom Line

Bypass mode is a supported, reversible, roughly US$25-class change that hands you full control of your own network behind a Gen 2, Gen 3, Flat High Performance or Mini terminal — and it will not make your satellite internet faster. Switch because you need firewall rules, VPN hosting, VLANs, your own mesh controller or multi-WAN failover. Stay in standard mode, or run your router as an access point, if what you actually want is better Wi-Fi coverage in a spare bedroom. Buy the Ethernet path first, prove the link works before you flip the toggle, do not expect port forwarding to appear on a CGNAT address, and keep the three rapid power cycles written down where you can find them without the internet.

Where These Details Come From — And How to Check Them Yourself

Everything in this guide is checkable, and on a service that changes its hardware, pricing and market coverage as often as this one does, you should check rather than trust a guide’s publication date. The primary references are:

• Starlink Support — starlink.com/support. The router, accessory and troubleshooting articles are where the bypass toggle, the Ethernet requirement per hardware generation and the power-cycle recovery step are described. Search the portal for “bypass” and “Ethernet adapter”.
• Starlink Specifications — starlink.com/specifications. Per-model power consumption, Wi-Fi generation and port layout, which is the correct source for sizing a battery or confirming whether your kit already has Ethernet.
• Starlink Shop and address checker — starlink.com/shop. The only authoritative source for accessory price, tax-inclusive total, stock and delivery estimate in your country, and for Starlink availability and plan tiers at your exact address.
• Starlink legal documents — starlink.com/legal. Terms of Service, warranty language and market-specific variations, relevant if you are worried about supplying your own hardware.
• Community channels — the official Starlink community forum at community.starlink.com and the independent r/Starlink subreddit, which is where firmware edge cases, recovery experiences, regional stock waits and app-build changes surface first. Useful for pattern-spotting, unreliable for numbers, and always worth reading by date — much of the archived advice about statistics going dark in bypass describes firmware that has since moved on.
• Regulatory databases — national equipment authorisation records, such as the FCC’s equipment authorisation search in the United States and the equivalent registers maintained by Ofcom in the United Kingdom and ACMA in Australia, if you need to confirm that a specific terminal model is approved for use in your country.

Where this guide gives a figure — power draw, price, latency, lead time — it is presented as an indicative range drawn from published specifications and widely repeated owner reports, not as an independent measurement. Prices, accessory listings, app menu layouts and regional availability all change without notice, so confirm the specifics for your own hardware and market at checkout before you commit money or a Saturday to the switchover.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does enabling bypass mode void my Starlink warranty or breach the Terms of Service?

Bypass mode is an official setting exposed in Starlink’s own app, not a hardware modification, so using it is not the kind of change that warranty language is aimed at — that language targets opening, rewiring or physically altering the terminal and power supply. The terms that actually govern your kit are published in Starlink’s legal documents at starlink.com/legal, and they differ by country, so read your own market’s version rather than a summary. One practical habit matters more than the paperwork: keep the stock router and cable. If you ever open a support ticket, the first request is usually to restore a standard configuration, and you cannot do that if the original hardware has been sold on.

Does bypass mode change my data usage, deprioritisation or Starlink price in any way?

No. Bypass is a local networking setting; billing, plan tier, congestion management and any deprioritisation thresholds are applied on Starlink’s side of the link and are unaffected by which router does NAT in your house. Your Starlink price stays exactly the same, and no plan gives you a discount for supplying your own router. Where third-party hardware does earn its keep on the commercial side is visibility: many consumer and prosumer routers log per-device traffic, which is genuinely useful on mobile or capped plans where you are trying to work out which device is burning the allowance.

Can I plug a switch or a second router into the Ethernet adapter in bypass mode?

An unmanaged switch or a plain access port will pass traffic fine, but do not expect two independent WAN leases from it — the terminal behaves like a single-subscriber handoff, so the practical pattern is one router taking the lease and everything else sitting behind that router. If you need a second network, create it as a VLAN or a second subnet on your own router rather than trying to get a second address out of the terminal. Tagged VLAN ports are the common failure here, because the terminal sends untagged frames and the DHCP handshake never completes.

Does bypass mode work on Roam plans while travelling, and is the adapter sold in every market?

The toggle lives on the terminal, so it is independent of plan type and works the same on Roam as on a fixed residential plan. The constraints when travelling are physical rather than software: power budget, somewhere to mount the dish, and a router that tolerates 12V or inverter supply. Accessory availability is the real trap, because Starlink availability differs country by country — shop stock, shipping destinations and accessory listings are not uniform. If you are crossing borders, buy the adapter in a market where it is listed and in stock before you leave, rather than assuming you can order it on arrival.

Will firmware updates still install in bypass mode, and can an update switch it back off?

Updates continue to arrive, because they are delivered to the terminal over the satellite link and do not depend on the built-in router’s Wi-Fi being active. The behaviour to watch for is the opposite of the usual worry: if the Starlink SSID suddenly reappears after an update or a long power outage, treat that as the setting having reverted rather than as a broadcast glitch, and reopen the router menu to confirm the toggle’s state. Because updates land on Starlink’s schedule rather than yours, schedule any critical work — a VPN cutover, a remote-site handover — with that possibility priced in.

What should I do about bypass mode before selling, returning or handing over a terminal?

Restore router mode first. A terminal left in bypass with no adapter attached looks exactly like dead hardware to the next person: no Wi-Fi, no local interface, no obvious way in. Do the three power cycles, confirm the default SSID is broadcasting and that the app has local access again, then follow Starlink’s account instructions to unassign or transfer the terminal so the new owner can register it. The same applies to field kits being handed between teams — send them out in a stock configuration and keep your custom router build with you.